INTRODUCTION
Before you read this article, you need to have read "Finding Great Food in Spain - Part 1. Once you have read that, we can continue our trip. In this part 2, we will cover two regions, Extremadura on the western side of Spain bordering Portugal and Andalucía in the south. So let´s dive in.
EXTREMADURA
First we head for Jarandilla de la Vera just before you get to Plasencia. There we have a spectacular parador that is a restored 15th century castle that was built for the counts of Oropesa and was also used for months by the Emperor Charles V. The link to book this parador is: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/ld4xmpRa From Jarandilla de la Vera it is well worth doing a day trip to Plasencia which is a very beautiful city. You will just want to spend time wandering around the historic district. There is a wonderful parador there, which we would say is one of the nicest in Spain, and where we suggest you have lunch. It is in an old convent, built in the 15th century, on top of a Jewish synagogue. Here is a link for you to reserve and book: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/IBK1Ygcn While visiting Plasencia, make sure you visit the cathedral, the Plaza Mayor, the acueduct, and the Parque de los Pinos. If you are hoping to see the cherry blossom in the Jerte valle at Jarandilla, you need to be there during what is usually the last week of March and the first week of April. The trees only blossom for about 10 days so we suggest you telephone in advance and find out when exactly the trees are expected to blossom, as of course, it all depends on the weather.
Next we will go to Trujillo, a hidden gem of a town. I once met someone who lived by Gibraltar who spent a weekend in Trujillo and immediately decided to move there. It has a parador, originally a Franciscan 16th century monastery, which is first rate. Here´s the link to see it and book: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/8XMzN7sE You will enjoy walking around the historic centre of Trujillo, seeing its castle, it´s main square the Plaza Mayor, and the Museo de la Coria.
Next we go to Mérida and here we have a parador that is an old convent built in about 1725 on the ruins of a Roman temple. Here is the link to see it and book:
https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/luVuMGJs Mérida is known for its Roman history, it´s amphitheatre being particularly well preserved. To fully appreciate the Roman and Arabic sites it´s better to go with a tour; we recommend this one: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/Oi1IFOaA
A few day trips that we like from Mérida is a day in Bádajoz and a day in Portugal in Évora which is also a Roman city and has some ancient megalithic stones nearby. In Badajoz, make sure you see the Plaza Alta, the Ayuntamiento and the Alcazaba and spend time relaxing by the river. A third trip we recommend is a day in Zafra, another historic gem. There is a parador there that used to be a Muslim fortress and which in the 1400s was converted into a palace for the victorious dukes. You could spend a night there and then go on to Sevilla the next day or you could lunch there during your day trip. The link is: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/6kY31bZj When in Zafra, visit the Museo de la Medicina, the Museo de Santa Clara, the two main Plazas, the Arco de Jerez and the Arco de Cubo.
ANDALUCIA
We now head direct to Sevilla where there is so much to see and do that we will probably need 5 to 7 days there. Our favourite hotel there is the Alfonso XIII, beautifully situated within walking distance of most of the main attractions. Here is the link to see it and book: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/ZYL0Dh2M The best times to visit Sevilla are April to June and September and October. In July and August it gets very hot, indeed one of the hottest places in Spain, and in our opinion is just too much for walking around doing the tourist thing - one just does not have the energy then. Even lounging by the pool for several hours can get you so sunburnt that you come to regret it. One thing to bear in mind is whether you want to experience the spring fayre (feria de abril) or the Easter processions, both of which are spectacular and extremely crowded. You will need to find out the exact dates as they vary each year, but reckon on them normally being in April. If you don´t mind the crowds and want to experience these events you will need to book nearly a year in advance as everywhere gets sold out. Apart from these special events, there is always a lot to see in Sevilla. We suggest you take a walking tour with private guide to the cathedral, giraldo tower, and the alcazar - here´s a link to book in advance to avoid disappointment: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/l1YEXjwz We suggest you walk around Plaza España and the María Luisa Park at your leisure as both are very near the hotel. It is great fun to get acquainted with the city by taking a horse and carriage ride for up to an hour (you negotiate the price with the driver on the spot).
Anthony in Plaza España, a short walk away from the Alfonso XIII.
No visit to Sevilla would be complete without experiencing a good flamenco show, and by good, we mean it should be technically excellent in a great atmosphere with quality food and drinks served - we think this place meets the bill: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/iuyQJa43 Another fun thing to do in Sevilla is take a lunch or dinner cruise on the Guadalquivir river. Here´s a link to book that: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/wLpGgCPc Much more romantic however and more memorable is to take a private dinner cruise and this one is excellent: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/R9BqC81j Another great fun activity is a trip to the Triana market and a private cooking class - here´s the link to book that: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/Yx3W8rQ1 Next, we like to suggest three day trips to do from Sevilla. The first is a trip into the countryside to see pigs among the acorn trees that they feed on, and then sample some of the best ´bellota´ or acorn ham in the world. You will also visit the attractive town of Aracena along with it´s water filled caves. Here´s the link to book: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/NCw6wfol Our next day out is to experience the Doñana national park with all it´s wildlife and birds, and also the nearby village of El Rocío. Here´s the link: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/NCw6wfol If you are visiting in May or June, you might see the main pilgrimage, full of flowers, called the Romería de El Rocío which is held at the weekend of pentecost, 50 days after Easter. At that time you might also see boxes of the delicious local strawberries being sold. The third tour we recommend is a day trip to Cordoba. If you are there in May, you might see the patio flower festival which you can read more about in our Flowers of Spain blog. Of course, you can still see some of the patios at any time of year, the other main site to see being the mosque, now turned into a cathedral. Here´s a link for the tour we recommend: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/AOdP8CYV
Our next destination is Carmona, not all that far from Sevilla. It will have been a busy few days in Sevilla so now its time to rest and chill out. We suggest just enjoying the superb parador with its fabulous views; it´s a 14th century Moorish Fortress which was extended and refurbished by the victorious Christian Kings. Maybe take a walk around Carmona town. Here´s a link to book this parador: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/ry3c5NFB
Next we go to Arcos de la Frontera where we find another historic parador, this time the building of a royal representative of government, called a ´corregidor´, who was responsible for administrative and judicial responsabilities. The link to see and book this parador is: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/sThPPxBn Try and time your stay there so that you arrive on a Tuesday and leave on a Friday. The reason is we recommend two unique days out which are only possible on a Wednesday and Thursday respectively. The first is a visit to the Domecq bull farm in Benalup - Casas, about an hour´s drive from Arcos. You will book your tickets for the show and need to be there at 10.30 - the link to do this is: https://www.acampoabierto.com/reserva/ where you can also see more about it on their website. After you have enjoyed yourselves on the farm, we recommend you head for Conil, a charming old town on a beautiful beach, full of nice fresh fish restaurants. We´ve spent a lot of time in Conil over the years and just love it so much. You can walk for ages along the beach. In the evening you will drive back to Arcos in time for dinner at the parador. Next day, you will go to Jerez de la Frontera to see the famous royal ecuestrian school of dance, where the horses dance to music in what is a spectacular and enjoyable show of great skill. I suggest you buy your tickets online well in advance, the link to book being: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/sYF3tYKu Aim to arrive at 11.00 about an hour before the show. We warn you that Jerez is a nightmare to drive in, difficult to park, and easy to get lost on their maize of one way streets and motorways. To avoid missing the show, we recommend you park somewhere on the outskirts of the city, and take a taxi to the Escuela Real de Danza Ecuestre. You will then be in the old part of the city and can wander around exploring it. What we suggest is you go on a horse and carriage tour for about 45 minutes - it´s great fun, and will give you a good birds eye view of what there is to see. After your day in Jerez, drive back to Arcos in time for dinner at the parador.
Our next stop will be Ronda. The parador here sits on the edge of the ´tajo´, an impressive gorge, giving you wonderful views of the gorge, the bridge over it and the surrounding countryside. We have had many good meals at this parador and enjoy walking around this elegant and historic town. The link to book here is: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/uLDtWXAq A fun thing to do in Ronda is to take a buggy ride and experience the gorge in a way that tourists on foot cannot do - here´s the link to book: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/rXjDvHYu My mother used to love going to the mountains of Ronda to see all the birds, amongst them eagles. Today she would have loved this birdwatching tour that we recommend: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/9HvFzpzw Around Ronda town, you want to make sure you see the bullring and the old arab baths. A day trip you can do from Ronda is to drive to Malaga via El Burgo. We suggest parking on the edge of Malaga and then taking a taxi to the historic area where the main street, Calle Larios, is and visiting the cathedral there. Then take a taxi up to the Gibralfaro parador where you can have lunch and enjoy beautiful views of Malaga. Next drive to Marbella, and take the first exit into the town to the historic area and square - there is an excellent pastry shop there called Lepanto. You can walk along the promenade by the sea. You can also walk into the old town to a charming square called Plaza Los Naranjos. Next drive a few kilometres to Puerto Banus where you can wander around the port and view all the multimillion dollar yachts there. Then drive on to San Pedro de Alcántara where you will take the first exit and choose the road for Ronda, which is a beautiful drive over the mountains. As you climb, on a clear day you can see Gibraltar and North Africa in the distance. Just after you have passed the treeless grey mountain, you will see lots of white villages in the valleys to your left. Then on the right, look out for hiking trails in the national park with barbeque areas that you can cook on. From there you are only about ten kilometres away from Ronda where you´ll have dinner in the parador.
Next, and final stop in Andalucia, is Granada. The origins of the parador here date back to the 13th century when it was an Arab Nasrid palace. After the Christian conquest in 1492 it was turned into a monastery. Today it is one of the most popular paradors and to get in you will need to book many months in advance, even nearly a year. Here´s the link to book: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/4LdRlkwh In June they have an annual music festival in Granada - we have loved going to the ballet in the Generalife gardens. For tickets you need to visit their official site after the new year: https://www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/agendaculturaldeandalucia/evento/festival-internacional-de-musica-y-danza-de-granada The best way to see the Alhambra, Generalife and Nazrine palaces is to take a private tour: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/cYq4qv7b No trip to Granada would be complete without the traditional flamenco show including dinner: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/ItAakKW About 3 hours before the show we recommend taking a guided sunset walking tour of the area: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/rGHB4P6D When I lived in Granada we used to love going hiking on various trails around and at the top of the Sierra Nevada. These two small group hiking tours remind me of those days and we thoroughly recommend them: one is a gastronomic tour in a very scenic valley at the foot of the Sierra: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/fJjTDyct The other is a hiking tour near the top of the mountain: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/hVngMCHf If you prefer to go around the Sierra Nevada on a horse, then this tour is for you: https://tripadvisor.tpk.mx/6RhDfHO1 If exploring the Sierra Nevada in a comfortable 4 x 4 vehicle is more your scene, then we recommend this tour for you: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/2ihIoSZI Finally if you are energetic and prefer to electric bike down the Sierra, then we recommend this tour for you: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/Ica7u5CZ
View of the Sierra Nevada in March.
Back in Granada, you want to be sure to visit the cathedral, and the nearby Bibirambla square. the basilica de San Juan de Dios and La Cartuja.
Inside La Cartuja, Granada
To relax, we recommend experiencing the arabic hammam - here´s a link for that: https://getyourguide.tpk.mx/Ica7u5CZ - we envy you!!!
That concludes our tour of Extremadura and Andalucia. To continue our gastronomic tour of paradors, see our next blog "Finding Great Food in Spain - Part 3, Valencia and Mallorca".
We hope you have enjoyed this blog. The links in it recommending places can benefit us financially - we humbly ask you to make your bookings through these links as that helps us to keep this site up and running - and it won´t cost you any more than if you were to book directly on the provider`s own website. Also, in the event of a problem, it makes it easier for us to resolve it. Happy Travels! And we would very much appreciate it if you could forward this to those of your friends who love historic towns, beautiful countryside and travelling. Thank you, and may God bless you. Lean and Anthony, the travelling donkeys.
